'Chromatic Exploration'

It is indisputable that red has ruled the runway and high-street in recent seasons, and as a lover of red lipstick and an owner of multiple pairs of red trousers, I knew this lecture would be right up my street. I did not realise however just how insightful the presentation would be.

After having been made aware of the historic and cultural connotations associated with red as a colour, the presentation began to explore red's vast array of shades, tones, complementary colours. I felt as though my eyes were opened as to the potential exploration such a simple thing as a primary colour can allow for. This prompted me to further explore the subject and gave me a reference point from which I could develop my own chromatic exploration. For example, to me the most interesting part of the presentation involved the physiological reasoning behind why the placement of red garments influences the messages generated; with red hats being seen as a symbol of creativity, and red trousers intepreted as provocative.

As part of our course we were each designated one of three colours (or shades if you want to be pedantic), pink, gold, or black. I was rather hoping to to receive pink; as those that know me personally are probably aware, I could go for hours with my spiel on the inescapability of 'millennial pink'. However, much to my dismay I received black. My initial preconceptions led me to believe that black was the most boring colour I could have been allocated, with it seeming oddly both too dull to criticise and too safe commend. Despite this, as I began to explore the colour in greater depth, I realised, that ironically, it is exactly this reputation that makes black such an interesting tone to investigate.

With further contemplation I began to realise just how much the reputation of the colour black has changed over the years, with origins in Neolithic cave paintings, ancient associations with fertility (due to the deep dark colour of the fertile banks of the river nile), juxtaposed with more modern linkages to death and humility within western culture. During the 1900's black became synonymous with anarchism, with subculture groups such as goths, punks and rockers, all adopting the colour to match their respective aesthetics.

I agree with the general consensus of recent years that black has lost its way somewhat. The fast paced world of modern retailing and budget fashion, paired with the black's ability to match anything, caters perfectly to society's taste for convenience. Having been adopted for convenience on such a large scale, it is perhaps true to say its reputation has been somewhat tarnished. No longer is black a rebellious statement, dead is its edgy and chic reputation, some have even gone as far as to argue that black is obsolete.

With further investigation, my preconceptions were challenged. Revisiting some of my all time favourite collections, I greeted their usage of black with a slightly more analytical eye. I noticed that black allows for pure focus, The bold shade draws the eye towards the garment, allowing you to centre in on the cut, structure or pattern presented. I particularly love the juxtaposition of the deep luxurious velvet, with the sleek and modern sheer panelling in Comme des Garcons' spring 2014 collection.

It is this kind of attention to detail that allows for a conversation to emerge. The use of the shade at all levels of the fashion spectrum leaves us questioning black's position in fashion, and opens up a controversial debate surrounding its status as a conventional cop-out of a colour vs its seductive and confident allure.

This was just a short overview of my findings from my initial investigation into black as a colour. I hope to post a more in depth report once I have further explored the subject matter over the coming week. Alongside this I aim to post more chromatic explorations throughout the course of the year, seeking inspiration from a multitude of sources within my every day life, which should all be found under the tag #colour.

(Based on a lecture by Tim Rundle)

#colour #red #black #commedesgarçons #FCP