The Same But Different- Trickle Across Trend Movement.

Following my earlier exploration of trend movement I decided to look at the trickle-across theory. The theory suggests is another version of the trickle theories, it suggests that fashion moves horizontally between groups on similar social levels. In the trickle-across model, there is little to no delay between adoption from one group to another. The theory is demonstrated in cases where designers show a look that is simultaneously available at all price points. In simple terms a fashion trend is accepted at the same time across a range of social levels, it may also refer to the transfer of trends laterally across a social level rather than ascending or descending the social ladder.

The lateral movement of trends requires leaders within that social level, they are the pioneers of trends, these trends are assessed by other members of the same societal section and if deemed worthy, accepted and replicated by other members of this group. Social media is pivotal part of the society we live in today, the fashion industry has witnessed a huge shake up in inspiration, design, distribution and marketing processes as a result of the popularity of sharing sites. Social media (perhaps most notably instagram) has seen the removal of the strict class based roles. It used to be true that fashion influencers were those of a high social standing. Thanks to the vast range of relatable figures on these sites, the desire for those of a lower social standing to emulate this style has been removed. Superficially presenting oneself as better off than they may actually be is a trend that is somewhat extinct, the nature of trends bubbling up from the masses and gradually ascending towards the catwalks of major fashion is another phenomenon that appears to have subsided in recent years. The dissimilation of trends is no longer based on social standing but merely on the content of a design or outfit compilation, for example Youtube and Instagram has allowed suburban teens such as Camille Jansen to be catapulted to fame, thanks to their self created content drawing observation on a global level. These ‘lucky’ few have usurped the influences of huge media corporations thanks to their relatability and ‘authenticity’, with Jansen recently completing a campaign for UO x Champion before reaching school-leaving age. The no holds barred manner of social media means that anyone of any background can present themselves as an influencer, with the contemporary removal of prejudice surrounding class division there is no need for potential influencers to disguise their class in order to be respected.

The use of social media as a sharing platform has opened up the fashion industry to everyone. In previous years the attendees of fashion shows have generally been rich and powerful influencers, access to seasonal shows was only granted through invitation, and the film reels from the shows not made available to the public until the collections themselves had been released. As recently as 2010 it was unheard of to be using a mobile phone when attending a fashion show, nowadays it is almost mandatory that shows are to be recorded and uploaded almost immediately; in turn fuelling the fast fashion fire. The introduction of social media’s instant streams, through the likes of Youtube and Instagram live, has revolutionised the fashion industry. The rate at which high street knockoffs of designer collections debuted on the runway has been perpetuated by this immediate access, thus allowing for similar trends to be exhibited concurrently in both designer collections and high street stores. According to a survey by the Digital Society 37% of Britons said that seeing what others wear on social media inspires them to try something new and 11% credit fashion bloggers as being more inspirational than designers. There have been suggestions that humans are naturally drawn to prospects that seem achievable, the success of many fashion bloggers may be down to their accessibility. The styles donned by these new-age innovators are more often than not within the price point of their captive audience, as is proven by the popularity of youtube sale hauls and ‘challenges’ showing how to get an outfit under £50 or similar achievable price points.

An innovator will often obtain a following of people from a similar background, this allows for their influence to disperse rapidly as their style will be almost immediately deemed acceptable by their captive audience. Most feel the need to define themselves as member of a certain social group and dress to separate themselves from other factions of society, while the clothing style of this group may be unique, differentiation of dress within this group is limited thus illustrating the trickle across theory in action. The desire to conform is often referred to as the ‘Herd mentality’, it is clear in all levels of society. Evidence of the ‘herd mentality’ comes from Dutch photographer Hans Eijkelboom.

Eijkelboom has spent the past 22 years of his life capturing people all over the globe, from New York, Amsterdam and Shanghai to name but a few places. Eijkelboom could be regarded as a kind of anti-Bill Cunningham, his focus is not on individualism, but on recurring trends he observes on the streets. “The process,” he says, “is simply that I walk to the centre of the city where many people are. Then I walk around for 10 to15 minutes. When something in the crowd intrigues me or touches me, I decide that will be the theme of the day. Then I start photographing for two hours. Many times, it goes wrong: I don’t see anything, so I don’t photograph that day; or I go to the city, see my subject, start photographing and, surprisingly, in the next two hours, never see my subject again. And then, for that day, there is no photo note.” (The Guardian, 2014) Eijkelboom’s People Of The 21st Century and was composed of thousands of images, set out in a rigid grid structure, displaying almost identical outfits donned by the public from across the globe. Originally conducted as a study investigating how consumerism affects our individuality it makes for a perfect encapsulation of the modern day Trickle Across trend formation.

It cannot be denied that the use of social media has had a significant impact on the fashion world. The influences of snapchat, facebook, Instagram and Twitter has managed to transcend all levels of the fashion chain, and shifting the pattern of trend movement into something that would have been unrecognisable even a decade ago.